We were so lucky to be able to take a cruise on the
Rhine River from Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam, the Netherlands. On the
second day, we docked in Breisach, Germany. In the morning, we did a walking
tour of that lovely village. In the afternoon, we did a bus tour to Colmar,
France. We crossed the Rhine by bus - less than a kilometer’s distance - and
had thus crossed from Germany into France.
The Alsace region has been fought over by Germany and
France over the centuries and has changed nationality several times. Its
culture is an interesting blend of the two ethnic groups. About 20% of the
population speak the Alsatian dialect. Our local guide, who seemed to be in her
50’s, told us that this dialect can only be taught in the home. It has no
written language and she is probably in the last generation to speak it. This
would be tragic because when a language – or dialect – dies, some of the
culture dies with it.
Our first stop in Colmar was the Statue of Liberty. What first
came to my mind was that the French had taken it back, deciding that
we no longer deserved to keep it. While current American immigration policy
makes this true, we were only viewing a replica. It was put there by the
village of Colmar in honor of their native son, Frederic Auguste Bartholdi who
was born in Colmar on April 2, 1834 and designed the statue that up until now
has been a symbol of America’s welcoming of immigrants from throughout the
world. It was a poignant moment for me to see that symbol of freedom and know
that it no longer expressed the values that made America truly exceptional.
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replica of the Statue of Liberty at the entrance of Colmar |
Next, we went into the center of Colmar. It was
founded in the ninth century and much of its style has been retained. Its
dramatic pitched roofs, pastel stucco and distinct French shutters with
geraniums in all the window boxes make it a unique place to visit. Its Little
Venice is something special to see.
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good example of Colmar building |
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a street in Colmar |
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a typical sign |
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in Little Venice |
I would have loved to stay longer and visit Colmar’s
museums and other points of interest, but it was onward to a wine tasting.
Colmar is in the center of the Alsatian wine region. The area has a special
micro-climate perfect for growing grapes. The area is noted for its Pinot Blanc,
Riesling, Pinot Gris, and several others. I’m no connoisseur of wine so they
all tasted good to me. To go with it, this family winery served a kuglehopf, a cake typical of Alsace that
went very well with the wine. Our guide told us that she has no time to cook
Alsatian dishes and only eats them at her mother’s house. I told her to learn
these recipes before it’s too late. When a culture loses its language and
cuisine, what else is left?
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the winery |
Having these regional cultures enriches a nation
and it would be tragic to lose it.
After Colmar, we spent the next day in Strasbourg
about 70 miles away. Besides being a government center for the EU, it is also a
center of Alsation culture. It’s an area well worth visiting. I feel so
fortunate to have been there.
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